Dressmaking Instructions for Cuban Dress

Fabric
The authentic Cuban dress is made of cotton broadcloth or poplin. The dress in the picture was made of cotton satin broadcloth (also known as polished cotton or cotton with a sheen). Other cotton and cotton blend woven fabrics are also appropriate.

Shell:
Make a fitted slim skirt dress. The length of this dress should be above the knee. The hemline may be all the same length or shorter in the front and longer in the back.

Extension:
Cut an A line skirt extension. The skirt extension hemline may be all one length ankle length or longer in the back and shorter in the front. The true Cuban rhumba dress does not sweep the floor. It is heel length at the back. However, for theatrical purposes it is sometimes made with the back sweeping the floor. Line the extension.

Ruffles:
For the dress in the photo ruffles were made like this: (the subject was five feet tall), cut many circles 12 inches in diameter (for the back), 10 inches in diameter (for the sides) and 9 inches in diameter (for the front). Draw a concentric circle at their center with a quarter. Make a radius cut. Each segment will be six inches long at the seamline. Join the ruffle segments at the radius cuts. Do not gather. This type of ruffle is lighter in weight than gathered ruffles. Finish edges with wide 1/2 inch double folded bias tape, and attach ruffles to skirt extension.

Complete:
Attach the extension with the ruffles to the slim skirt dress above the knee.

Voila!

OR

If you prefer to use a pattern, here are some:

Flamenco pattern
This pattern may be shortened to end the ruffles at the heel by shortening the skirt pattern at the hip.

And here's a good broadcloth fabric: Fabric Club


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